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Those who know me will acknowledge that I've always been an adventurer. After living in Hawaii , California and Florida all my life, I have spent the last decade in the quiet and beautiful north Florida village of High Springs. I thought I would spend my last night of sleep in this place, having found friends and life here to be glorious.
But, adventurers don't usually change, so in December of 2004 I found myself in Costa Rica searching.........I don't know what was driving me, for as I said, I thought I was setttled in High Springs for the rest of my days. Then, I ventured just across the border to Panama and found the majestic Volcan Baru. This extinct volcano is situated in the southwestern-most Province of Chiriqui which is just south of the northwestern province of Bocas del Toro. Chiriqui offers a plethora of environments from coastal towns on the Pacific (hot climate) to the highlands mountain villages of Boquete on the east of Volcano Baru and Volcan on the west (mountain climate), with Panama 's second largest city (David) (hot climate) to the south. Chiriqui Province is known as the "Texas of Panama", and the vegetable fields, dairy and cattle farms (called "Fincas") and horse ranches abound, especially around Volcan. This highlands area is known for it's highly prized and award winning coffee. As a matter of fact, the Kona Coffee people were recently indicted for importing Boquete coffee and re-labeling it "Kona". Starbucks always puts a ration of Boquete coffee in their brew, for its marvelous flavor.
I fell in love with the highlands climates of the towns around Baru, with 70-80 days and 55-65 nights......think of Northern California. No air conditioning or heat is needed here...just a jacket when you go out at night, and a blanket for sleeping. The area is BEAUTIFUL beyond belief...I wake up in the morning to either cloud forest mist (called Bajareque) or brilliant sun with astonishingly close high mountain peaks. The people are gentle and happy, and come in two native kinds....the indiginous (indians....the ones first encountered and in some tribes, destroyed by Balboa and other Spanish conquistadors) and the descendents of the Europeans (mostly Spanish). Unfortunately, the European explorers brought unknown disease with them, as well as guns, and some total populations of indians were wiped out. North Americans have been here for decades, and Canadian, US and British citizens and some Europeans are plentiful in the highlands area. The indiginos mostly live on reservations and are brought to the highlands by coffee plantation owners to pick the coffee cherries in December-February. Some indiginos live here full time and work as gardeners and other services. Yes, it is a second world country and without Lady Bird Johnson to teach them to "Keep Panama Beautiful", there is an adjustment period of the lack of asthetics of the local town streets. The non-materialistic nature of the culture and relatively poor indiginous peoples (equivalent to the Navajo, Cherokee and Sioux population in the US), provides a stark contrast to the US. Unemployment in Panama is 25% - 40% depending on the area, so labor is very cheap...usually $8 - $10 a day for housekeeping and gardening help. Once you get past your need for a Disney-type environment, you focus on the beauty of nature and the sweet people here. And there is the occasional Disney type gated subdivision development for those who just must have it. Most Americans choose to live among the local Panamanians, and learn to speak Spanish and do their best not to have too much effect on the culture here. Of course, there is always that "Ugly American" who stands out in any crowd. "They should...." is heard often here. But if they change then it won't be the simple place it is now. Patience is the most valuable tool you can bring, or learn, here. Letting go of the frenetic pace and high maintenance demands of the US way of life will serve you here....not only in your own peace but in dealing with the locals. Unlike Americans, they are not that motivated by money. They value tranquility and quality of life above "getting it done". If the demands of the American culture become too much, they may just walk away, even though it will cost them money. Shopping is easy here, although there are no Target, Barnes & Noble, Nordstrom, Walgreen type businesses. Small stores carry a weird variety of things that don't necessarily relate to each other. You just learn where to go for what you want, and learn to settle for less than you are used to. The great thing about that is, you learn the meaning of "precious". Things you took for granted back in the States are highly prized here....it makes for a much more grateful lifestyle. Things you can't find in Boquete are available in David, just 40 minutes away. Things you can't find in David, you can surely find in Panama City (an hour's flight away). And, some Panama City stores are now opening in David, making it increasingly easy to get everything you want here. Chiriqui Province is not known for its beaches; most of the coastline is made up of mangrove and not beaches. There are three main beaches here, one about 30 minutes and the other two about an hour, from David. They have brown sand with gently sloping access to the warm waters. It is a real joy to bob around in the surf and look up and down the coastline without a highrise to be seen. Just an occasional small beachhouse dots the shoreline. Offshore islands in the Gulf of Chiriqui and throughout the Pacific have islands with white sand beaches, torquoise blue water and some of the best deep sea fishing in the world. The Caribbean side has more white sand beaches, but that area is more like the Caribbean islands, and all the problems attendant to that environment. Golf is available, but just now becoming standard fare. 30% of Panama is set aside as National Park because of the importance of the rainforests. The watershed created by the rainforests feeds Gatun Lake, which feeds the waterway of the Panama Canal. 52 million gallons of fresh water from the lake are dumped into the oceans with every ship that passes through the locks of the Canal (26 million gallons on the Pacific side and 26 million gallons on the Atlantic side). This is Panama's greatest wealth...built in 1904-1914 by the US, and owned by the US until 1999, the Canal operates 365 days a year, 24 hours a day. The biggest cruise ships pay $200,000 to transit the Canal. A small private yacht will pay about $2,500, or can "piggy back" and go through in the same "wash" as a big ship for as little as $600. The revenue is what makes Panama different than it's other Central American neighbors who have no natural wealth, except for bananas and tourists. In October of 2006 the people of Panama voted YES on a referendum that will create a third land in the Canal, which will accept Super PanaMax freighters. You can even watch activities in the Canal live, by viewing the Panama Canal Web Cam. Panama has over 180 international banks and is one of the major financial centers in the Western Hemisphere. Panama is the second largest offshore banking capital (second to Grand Cayman) in the world. Panama City is more sophisticated and cosmopolitan than any other in Central America, except perhaps, Mexico City. There is some crime in the City , but outside of that violent crime is relatively unknown. There is crime of opportunity...if you leave your door open, someone will find their way in to help themselves. Most houses have bars, but often that is for decoration. People are gentle and kind, and you are more safe here than on most US streets. Politics are improving every day since Manuel Noriega was arrested and put into jail in Miami (he will get out in September of 2007, but there is already a French extradition request in place with the US Attorney in Miami. It is believed that the US will honor the French request, which will send him immediately to France, where he has been found guilty in absentia for money laundering that will keep him incarcertated in France for 10 years, until 2017. At that time, he will be 83 years old and, if returned to Panama, will face life imprisonment for the murder conviction in absencia, of 3 men here). Panama has a democratically elected president and 2 vice presidents, as well as the congress, who are elected for one 5 year term. They cannot run again until at least one other administration has served. The current President is Martin Torrijos, son of the dictator Omar Torrijos, who was Noriega's boss until Manual exploded his airplane in 1982. The current president has done much to improve the country internally, and in the eyes of the international community as well. He was educated in the US and has degrees in Political Science and Law. He is the first president here to appoint real professionals to critical cabinet posts, instead of friends and croanies. This is bringing Panama a great deal of positive notariety in the world. International film star and musician/composer Ruben Blades is the Minister of Tourism and is doing a very good job putting Panama on the forefront of tourism and expatriot living. I have successfully applied for, and received, my Pensionado Residency Visa. This entitles me to stay in the country indefinitely. Tourist visa holders must exit the country every 3 months for 72 hours to renew their visas. It also entitles me to many benefits, including low property tax (or none, if you build a new house within a specified time period), discounts on many things of life (travel, medicine, insurance, utilities, restaurants, etc.) and duty free importation of my household goods. And, oh yes, there's a special line in banks and public buildings for us "old folks" called Jubilado where the clerk takes you first, before the "kids" under 65. You only have to prove $500 a month income from a stable source (social security, pension, etc.) and that's about what it costs a month to live here (husbands and wives pay an additional $100 for the second spouse). Visa holders don't give up American citizenship, but rather have dual residency; US and Panama . (Visit www.internationalliving.com and www.escapeartist.com for more information about retiring in Panama.) People often ask me.."Why Panama?" My answer is "Why NOT Panama?" Visit my Penny In Panama page, where I plan to keep everyone updated as I get to know the country. Also, visit my News of Interest page. It's a good way for you to get to know the country, too. I've found a home in Boquete and moved here permanently. I plan to be "muy tranquilo" in my new home, and invite you all to come see me when you can. You can check the Guest Calendar to see when there's room here at Casa Ripple. For now, Hasta luego.... Penny Ripple (See Area Information For More Details) |
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